The main square of Büyükada with its white wooden mansions, Princes' Islands, Istanbul

Adalar · an hour by ferry

The Princes' Islands: a car-free day trip from Istanbul

An hour or so south of the city, in the Sea of Marmara, sits a small archipelago where cars are banned, the streets are lined with nineteenth-century wooden mansions, and the loudest sound is cicadas in the pine trees. On a hot summer day it is the best decision you can make in Istanbul.

What
Nine islands; four served regularly by ferry
The big one
Büyükada — the largest and busiest
Quieter
Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kınalıada
Ferry from
Kabataş, Eminönü and Bostancı
Journey
About 60–90 minutes depending on the service
Cars
Banned — electric shuttles, bicycles and walking

Why they are called the Princes' Islands

Because that is what they were for. During the Byzantine centuries the islands were where inconvenient royalty went: princes, empresses and deposed emperors were exiled here, frequently to monasteries, and frequently after being blinded first. Later the islands became a summer retreat for Istanbul's Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities, which is why they are dotted with churches, synagogues and the extravagant wooden villas that give them their character.

The most famous exile came later: Leon Trotsky lived on Büyükada from 1929 to 1933 after being expelled from the Soviet Union, and wrote The History of the Russian Revolution there. The house still stands, in ruins, and is a pilgrimage for a certain kind of visitor.

Which island should you choose?

Büyükada is the largest, prettiest and busiest. It has the grandest mansions, the main square, the restaurants, and the hill topped by the church of Aya Yorgi — a steep climb rewarded with a view over the whole archipelago and, at the top, a small restaurant. If you only visit one, visit this one.

Heybeliada is the second largest and noticeably calmer, with pine woods, a naval academy and the former Halki Greek Orthodox seminary on its hill. Good for walking.

Burgazada and Kınalıada are smaller, quieter and much more local — Kınalıada is the first stop from the city and the least visited by tourists. If your instinct is to avoid crowds, get off early.

Getting there

Ferries run from Kabataş and Eminönü on the European side and from Bostancı on the Asian side. The public ferry is cheap with an Istanbulkart and part of the pleasure — sit outside, drink tea, watch the city recede. Faster sea-buses also run. Journey times vary between about an hour and ninety minutes depending on service and how many islands it calls at.

Go early. The last ferries back fill up, especially on summer weekends, and the queue at Büyükada pier in late afternoon in August is a genuine ordeal. On a weekend the boats out are also packed; a weekday visit is a different and much better experience.

Getting around, and the horses

No private cars. For over a century transport was by fayton, horse-drawn carriage — and for many visitors that was the defining image of the islands. Following sustained animal-welfare campaigns and an outbreak of disease among the horses, the carriages were withdrawn in 2020 and replaced by electric shuttle vehicles. Bicycles are widely rented, and much of the island is best walked.

We mention this because a great many guidebooks and blog posts still promise horse-drawn carriages. They are gone, and on balance that is a good thing.

Is it worth a day?

In summer, absolutely — swimming, pine shade, seafood lunch by the water and a slow ferry home at sunset. In spring and autumn it is lovely and quiet. In winter much of it shuts and the crossing is cold and rough; we would generally steer you elsewhere.

It is a full day, not a half day, and it is best kept for a fourth or fifth day in Istanbul once the monuments are behind you. On a private tailor-made tour we can arrange the timings, a guide for the crossing and lunch — or simply tell you which ferry to take and let you have the day to yourselves, which for the islands is often the right answer.

Princes' Islands — frequently asked questions

Which Princes' Island is the best to visit?

Büyükada is the largest and most rewarding for a first visit — the grand wooden mansions, the main square and the climb to Aya Yorgi church. Heybeliada is quieter and good for walking; Kınalıada and Burgazada are the most local.

How do you get to the Princes' Islands from Istanbul?

By ferry from Kabataş or Eminönü on the European side, or Bostancı on the Asian side. The crossing takes roughly 60 to 90 minutes. The public ferry with an Istanbulkart is cheap and part of the fun.

Are there still horse carriages on Büyükada?

No. The horse-drawn faytons were withdrawn in 2020 after animal-welfare campaigns and disease among the horses, and replaced with electric shuttle vehicles. Many guidebooks are still out of date on this.

Are the Princes' Islands worth a day trip?

In summer, very much so — car-free streets, pine woods, swimming and seafood. Spring and autumn are quiet and pleasant. In winter much of the island closes and we would suggest something else.

See it with a private local guide

Every tour we run is private and tailor-made — you choose the places, your licensed local guide plans the day with you, and a private car is always included.

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